Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Emulgade PL68/50 not melting?

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  • Emulgade PL68/50 not melting?

    Posted by seryou on November 8, 2022 at 1:29 am

    Hi all,

    I’m making a body lotion using Emulgade PL68/50 (and Eumulgin SG) and am having some issues with the Emulgade. At first it was fine but after modifying the formulation slightly the Emulgade just forms clumps while heating the oil phase and doesn’t melt even at 80°C. I’ve tried heating all the oil phase ingredients together at once, and heating the oil phase to 75°C and then adding the Emulgade but am still having this issue. I’ve used these emulsifiers in a previous product and in previous prototypes of this lotion and haven’t had this problem, any idea what causes this?

    The only changes I made to the formulation was the addition of Cetiol Ultimate and Avocado Oil, as well as increasing the Eumulgin SG from 0.25% -> 0.5%. The Emulgade is at 4%. The total oil phase when from 17.25% -> 21.50%. Could any of these changes be causing this?

    seryou replied 1 year, 4 months ago 3 Members · 7 Replies
  • 7 Replies
  • graillotion

    Member
    November 8, 2022 at 1:53 am

    A couple things…. Even when I make 150 gram batches… there is a vast temperature difference between the top of the beaker and the bottom of the beaker.  If the bottom of the beaker (where your temp probe might be) shows 80….and you lift the probe near the surface…. it will often be 5-8C cooler.  In order for proper temperature dispersion….some stirring is required.  I also find that stirring helps to melt things much more efficiently.  So if you have not been stirring, and measuring near the top of the solution….try that.

    Have you tried putting your PL 68 in the water phase?  I have always put that type of emulsifier in the water phase.  Just works better for me.

  • ozgirl

    Member
    November 8, 2022 at 2:20 am
    It is probably the Eumulgin SG that is not melting rather than the Emulgade PL68/50. I think at best it only disperses in the oil phase.
    The Eumulgin SG can also be added to the water phase.
  • seryou

    Member
    November 8, 2022 at 3:19 am

    @Graillotion I was stirring it the whole time it was heating, I’ve made a 2kg batch using these emulsifiers (different product) and haven’t had this issue, it all melted into a homogeneous mix. I haven’t heard of adding it to the water phase though, might try that out.

    @ozgirl In my experience as well the Eumulgin SG only disperses, but its quite a fine powder and I’m seeing waxy lumps in my oil phase which only appeared when I added the PL68/50

     

  • graillotion

    Member
    November 8, 2022 at 3:26 am

    @seryou are you adding the PL 68 at the end?  If so…even it you are at melting temp…it will take some time.  (If you add it prior to heating…then it will generally melt as expected, as you approach proper temp.)

    Is this a new batch of PL 68?  Why don’t you do a two ingredient experiment…water or oil…what ever is easiest/cheapest….and just try melting a spoonful of the 68 in the liquid…and recording the melt point.  Maybe you have a batch….with say….an issue. :) 

  • seryou

    Member
    November 8, 2022 at 3:40 am

    @Graillotion I’ve tried adding it at the start and at the end. When it first happened the oil phase got up to 90°C and it still wasn’t melting (it was a small batch so a total of 21g of oil phase, and was being heated for a while). We’d break it up into smaller bits but they’d just clump together again without melting. I’ve been using the same batch and haven’t had this problem at all, its not expired either.

    So I’m just a bit confused considering it melted perfectly fine in my previous prototype which was essentially the same formulation and was only made a few days prior.

  • graillotion

    Member
    November 8, 2022 at 3:58 am

    seryou said:

    @Graillotion I’ve tried adding it at the start and at the end. When it first happened the oil phase got up to 90°C and it still wasn’t melting (it was a small batch so a total of 21g of oil phase, and was being heated for a while). We’d break it up into smaller bits but they’d just clump together again without melting. I’ve been using the same batch and haven’t had this problem at all, its not expired either.

    So I’m just a bit confused considering it melted perfectly fine in my previous prototype which was essentially the same formulation and was only made a few days prior.

    I guess the next step would be to do a knock-out with the 

    Undecane (and) Tridecane.

  • seryou

    Member
    November 8, 2022 at 4:14 am

    @Graillotion Yes that’s what I was thinking. I think it’s best to add cetiol ultimate in the cool down phase anyway as it’s volatile so I’ll try take it out of the oil phase and see how that goes.

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