Hello and welcome to the new forum!
Return to Chemists Corner click here
Recreating a High $$ Product
-
I have a friend who swears by Natura Bisse Diamond Extreme Cream. It
comes in a 1.7 oz jar and costs about $335.00. Finding the ingredients
was confusing because each site I saw them on listed them very
differently. I would like to make her something that will not cost her a
paycheck if I can. Here's the one I think makes most sense. Where do
you think the 1% line starts and what is in this that makes it do what
they claim it will?
Water (Aqua)
Pentaerythrityl Tetracaprylate
Tetracaprate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Propylene Glycol
C12-20 Acid PEG-8 Ester
Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate
Hydrogenated Polydece
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) *1% below this line?
Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract
Glycerin
Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter
Glyceryl Stearate
Pisum Sativum (Pea) Extract
Dimethicone
Tribehenin
Leontopodium Alpinum Extract
Salicyloyl Phytosphingosine
Sodium Carboxymethyl Beta-Glucan
Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate
Sodium Ursolate
Artemia Extract
Glyceryl Linoleate
Allantoin
Cetyl Phosphate
Carbomer
C 13-14 Isoparaffin
Ceratonia Siliqua Gum
Glyceryl Linolenate
Polyacrylamide
Tocopherol
Laureth-7
Potassium Sorbate
Chlorphenesin
Sodium Oleanolate
Phenoxyethanol
Triethanolamine
Methylparaben
Propylparaben
Disodium EDTA
BHT
Ethylparaben
Butylparaben
Isobutylparaben
Sodium Benzoate
Fragrance (Parfum)
Linalool
Coumarin
Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone
Thanks,
Jill
-
Correct and annotated Listing:Water (Aqua)Pentaerythrityl Tetracaprylate Tetracaprate (STEPAN® PTC)Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (MIGLYOL 810)Propylene GlycolC12-20 Acid PEG-8 Ester (Xalifin-15)Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate (Schercemol™ 1688)Hydrogenated Polydecene (probably PureSyn 8, but could be another grade)Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) *1% below this line? Good thinking, I agreeAmaranthus Caudatus Seed ExtractGlycerinMangifera Indica (Mango) Seed ButterGlyceryl StearatePisum Sativum (Pea) ExtractDimethiconeTribehenin (Compritol 888 ATO)Leontopodium Alpinum ExtractSalicyloyl PhytosphingosineSodium Carboxymethyl Beta-Glucan (CM-Glucan)Sodium Chondroitin SulfateSodium UrsolateArtemia ExtractGlyceryl LinoleateAllantoinCetyl PhosphateCarbomerC 13-14 IsoparaffinCeratonia Siliqua GumGlyceryl LinolenatePolyacrylamideTocopherolLaureth-7Potassium SorbateChlorphenesinSodium OleanolatePhenoxyethanolTriethanolamineMethylparabenPropylparabenDisodium EDTABHTEthylparabenButylparabenIsobutylparabenSodium BenzoateFragrance (Parfum)LinaloolCoumarinAlpha-Isomethyl IononeThis was useful:
-
Thanks! Very helpful information. :-)
-
I assume there's a lot of fluff ingredients in this product that I could do without. Seems that at 1% or less, aside from preservatives and antioxidants, TEA and EDTA, that they might not be necessary. What do you think I would have to keep in? I'm basically looking to keep the ingredients that make this product work.
-
Also there is Sepigel 305 in there the C13-14 Isoparaffin is a give-away
-
Thanks, Duncan - I missed that one.The following are typically perfume ingredients, I don't know why they listed them seperately, since they are also listing fragrance:LinaloolCoumarinAlpha-Isomethyl IononeThey have a vast abundance of preservatives and stabilizers:Tocopherol (Vitamin E, may also be an active ingredient)Potassium SorbateChlorphenesinPhenoxyethanolMethylparabenPropylparabenDisodium EDTABHTEthylparabenButylparabenIsobutylparabenSodium BenzoateThis is frequently a clue that they are adding a number of stock ingredient mixtures/pre-made sub-bases that someone else has made to their formula. The presence of so many redundant materials doesn't make sense otherwise.
-
LinaloolCoumarinAlpha-Isomethyl IononeIts an EU thing, in that you declare Parfum, and also fragrance allergens above a certain amount (0.001% for leave on,0.01% for rinse off ) They're doing a world compatible ingredient listing hence the Water (Aqua) and Fragrance (Parfum)Robert is right about the redundant preservative thing as well: Loads of extracts, all preserved differently = half of the approved annexe for preservatives listed at the bottom of the INCI if you're doing it right and going for full declaration. Can drive you mad sweeping all that up when listing out.
-
Short analysis:Base ingredients:Water (Aqua)Propylene GlycolGlycerinOils:Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate (Schercemol™ 1688)Hydrogenated Polydecene (probably PureSyn 8, but could be another grade)Glyceryl StearateDimethiconeTribehenin (Compritol 888 ATO)Pentaerythrityl Tetracaprylate Tetracaprate (STEPAN® PTC)Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (MIGLYOL 810)C 13-14 IsoparaffinEmulsifiers:C12-20 Acid PEG-8 Ester (Xalifin-15)Glyceryl LinoleateCetyl PhosphateGlyceryl LinolenateLaureth-7Sodium OleanolateThickeners/emulsifiers:CarbomerPolyacrylamideTriethanolamine"Active" ingredients:Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed ButterDimethiconeSalicyloyl PhytosphingosineSodium Carboxymethyl Beta-Glucan (CM-Glucan)Sodium Chondroitin SulfateSodium UrsolateAllantoinCeratonia Siliqua GumTocopherolExtracts:Amaranthus Caudatus Seed ExtractPisum Sativum (Pea) ExtractLeontopodium Alpinum ExtractArtemia Extract
-
I've been researching some (a lot) of the ingredients as there are many emulsifiers I have not used and several oils that I am not familiar with. I plan to get a sample of this product from my friend for further evaluation. She says it gets rid of "crepey" skin texture and minimizes lines. The fact that it is so expensive makes it hard for her to buy (me too!) so I'd like to come up with something that can offer similar results without breaking the bank.
Things I'm having trouble finding information on:
Compritol 888 ATO (this is by Gattefosse, right? the inci they show on their site is Tribehenin PEG-20 Esters, is this the same?
PureSyn 8 - I can find this but only in large quantity. Is there something I can sub for it?
Sodium Ursolate - I believe this is a skin conditioner but I can't find any sources. Can I use something like hyaluronic acid in its place?
Ceratonia Siliqua Gum - is this carob gum? What can I substitute for this?
Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate - Cromoist CS is similar to this but I think it has collagen in it.
Honestly I would like to simplify this as I can make something with good skin feel without having to source a ton of ingredients, but I want to make sure I narrow down the stuff that makes this work.
Thanks!
Jill
-
I would forget trying to match all the ingredients and instead focus on matching the feel and performance. That will probably be easier
-
Yes, I believe you're right Perry. I basically wanted to investigate the ingredients I wasn't familiar with to figure out what they did in the formula. Does that make sense? Most of the ingredients are at 1% or below and though some things make a difference at that level, not everything does. At least not to the point of making the whole product work as it does. It's all a part of my Adventures in Cosmetic Chemistry. ;-)
-
$335.00 for a lot of cheap ingredients. Parabens? The savvy consumer usually avoids. Reminds me of LaMer. $135.00 for a 2oz jar that has mineral oil and a lot of other cheap ingredients that a lot of celebriites and magazine editors love.. It's marketing. And, a lot of consumers still believe that because its expensive with a fancy name, it must be good. I agree with Perry's last post.
Howdy, Stranger!
It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!